Experience Tuscany

With the approaching of the spring season the number of fairs are increasing by the day and moving from indoor locations to the outdoors in piazzas and town streets. There is a great number of Tuscan towns that add to the many events with their local flavor and personal twist their one of a kind fair. Often these fairs are bound to an ancient tradition, while in other cases they are a relatively recent addition to local folklore.
It is impossible to list all the Tuscan town fairs of March here, so you will find a highlight of the main ones, those bound to the territory, so to let you best discover the local culture and history.

In Rignano sull’Arno the Sagra delle Frittelle, or rice fried pancakes, dominates every weekend until March 28. The delicious frittelle will be accompanied by local VinSanto. Also Montespertoli every weekend offers bomboloni and frittelle from March 7 to the 21st.

In Scarperia near Florence the Sagra del Cinghiale, or wild boar fair, is perhaps the first of the year. Opens on March 6 and close on the 14th. All entries are served with boar meat cooked in various ways. Tuscany has a long boar culinary tradition.

From March 11 until the 21st in Arezzo you will find locally brewed artisan beer at the Festa della Birra: live music, good beer and good food will be the protagonists of this event at Teatro Tenda in Arezzo.

On the Abetone mountain on the 13th the spectacular ski torchlight parade will come down the easy and panoramic Selletta slope, all th eway until the main square of the town. Prior to the parade is an early buffet dinner with local products and cinnamon hot wine. The event is open to all.

The weekend of 13 and 14 will finally be the time to discover the black marzolino truffle. This wonderful product is celebrated in Borgo San Lorenzo near Florence with recipes that enhance the taste of truffles.

In Florence is the “Taste” event. Three days at the Stazione Leopolda to discover the traditional tastes of Tuscany and Italy exposed by the best producers selected by the organizers. 190 producers from all over Italy make of this event a must-attend.

From March 13 to the 21st opens the Palio dei Somari, or donkey race, in Torrita di Siena. The Palio is on the 21st, but during the previous weekends the town offers many entertainment occasions.

You should not miss the Torciata of Pitigliano from the 13th to 21st of March. The two weekends are rich of events, and on the 19th a town bonfire burning a dummy made of winter vegetables and other field products is burnt in the main square while a merry go round of people salutes the coming of the new spring season. This is an ancient tradition that has recently been recovered.

More events in Tuscan towns tomorrow…so much to do in Tuscany, so much to write!

Within the last twenty years the Chinese population of Prato has greatly increased to reach estimates of up to 20 thousand residents, although unofficial estimates are much higher. In 1988 there were 31 Chinese residents in Prato, 20 years later things have changed dramatically.
This is the largest Chinese community in Italy. The Prato Chinatown has been recently defined by the Washington Post one of a kind in the world. Indeed here non Asian people and Italians feel awkward, as if they were in China. Here you can find Chinese stores for any necessity. Food, home equipment and kitchen utensils, technology stores, restaurants, gambling places, and more. Some places do not even have Italian speaking personnel and some restaurants only accept Chinese customers. While the latter are of course extremes of a wide array of experiences, Chinatown in Prato is certainly an interesting reality to discover. The main artery is Via Pratese, where the largest and most furnished stores are present. Here everyday it is very hard to spot a wester face, and more often than not if you wish to buy something you need to speak some Chinese or hope a first generation Italian from Chinese parents works in the shop and comes to the rescue.
Why Prato? Well, the city has a long lived textile production history. During the centuries the city has been at the center of innovation and superior craftsmanship as far as the production of new textile materials and techniques is concerned. One example for all was the long lasting relation between the Russian Tsar court and the city. The fame of the town was world wide spread and the Chinese workers of the Zhejiang region, a very poor portion of China but with a long tradition in the textile industry, arrived in Prato to find work in the factories. Their presence was mostly filling black market jobs at the beginning. With time many grew to become entrepreneurs and started calling other Chinese people to Italy to hire them, thus creating an exponential effect. The last decade economic crisis has boosted the Chinese economy in Tuscany, as their products offered on the market have found a renewed interest due to the increasing cost of living. With time production has also improved, and if fifteen years ago “made in China” was synonym of the cheapest quality, nowadays things have changed radically.
Of course there still are many negative aspects that any integration process brings along. Some put off the newcomers capitalizing on cliches and local news reporting crime stories. The process has started nevertheless, and it is encouraging to see Italian and Chinese getting married, and the first or second generation Italians of Chinese descent embrace both cultures equally with all the difficulties that that also embodies.
A stroll in Via Pratese in Prato, Tuscany, certainly is an interesting experience to make. Whenever you are in Florence or are visiting the historic center of Prato, take an extra step towards this section of town. There you will find thousands of imported goods and foods from China, and will live a very contemporary reality of Tuscany.

Yesterday Sunday January 31st was the very first of the 5 float carnival parades in Viareggio. The first crazy weekend of the Tuscan city facing the sea and famous for one of the most beautiful and historic carnivals of Italy.
The floats of Viareggio are among the most sophisticated and elaborated of Italy, and perhaps the world. They move and create impressive visual effects thanks to the highest level of craftsmanship of their makers.
These are the perfect days to spend your holiday in Tuscany, as you will be bale to be in Viareggio or the Versilia area to attend this unique and majestic happiness fair. The spectacular floats and the pervading happiness are enhanced by the fair weather that characterizes the city of Viareggio. Just to confirm this, while most of Italy is under freezing cold in Viareggio the sun shines!
The following is a video that shows the 2010 creations of the First Class floats. There are various classes of floats, and of course the first-class are the most prestigious and elaborate ones, although great care is put into making all floats. Each float building team participates to the selection to win the first prize and to make the parade more spectacular each team is accompanied by a number of people dresses in theme with the float and carries out a dance at the rhythm of the chosen music for that particular float. You will see floats addressing current themes of national and international relevance, all with a lot of irony and a bit of sarcasm.

Enjoy the video, just 3 minutes long, but it will give you a good idea of the healthy fun going on in Viareggio right these days!

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Traveling from Arezzo to Florence by train is a splendid panoramic experience. In order to enjoy the trip you have to get the regional train, the one that makes all the stops, otherwise you will travel along the highway.
As soon as one leaves the city of Arezzo the rolling hills around start to shape the landscape opening a wonderful scenario patched with woods, cultivated lands, rivers, grasslands and splendid farmhouses. Some of these have been carefully restored, while others preserve just a few broken walls with no roof. These add an even greater amount of romanticism to the whole scenery. It is like stepping a hundred years in the past, when these grasslands used to be worked by the hand of poor farmers and sheep grazed freely. After a few tunnels under a series of hills, a white road appears on the left, parting two large grasslands and becoming a thin stretch on the horizon, getting lost in the blue sky over Tuscany. Needless to say, the ever present cypress trees accompany the salient curves of many of these white country roads. The union of these two elements of the Tuscan landscape has become a classic that one finds in many pictures and paintings of Tuscany. It is as if some unknown schemer planned to add a vertical dimension to the flat consistency of white country roads, as to exalt them, keeping their linearity intact with a likewise linear element like the cypress tree.
Each little town the train stops at gives the wonderful occasion to observe how these small urban centers are laid out. The alternation of countryside and inhabited lands is very gradual. The open fields start letting in one red roof at the time. They then become two, three, then a whole group. Slowly, you enter the small town approaching the train station. The wheels start slowing down, allowing the eye to catch more details on the lives of those living there. The terraces with people having breakfast, windows hanging clothes to dry, workplaces with busy employees, someone attending the garden. After a 1 minute stop you depart again towards Florence. Soon you start crossing the rivers that carry water to the river Arno. You are in the Vald’Arno now, the last land in the province of Arezzo before entering the realm of Florence. San Giovanni is the last town in the province of Arezzo. The next stop, Figline Valdarno, is already the province of Florence. You can notice how the land starts to change the closer you get to Florence. You are approaching a different region of Tuscany, the famous Chianti. This land starts off with higher hills that in some parts resemble small mountains. The vegetation in Chianti is also different, and you can spot in the distance large fir woods that are more usual at higher altitudes. You have already left behind Figline Valdarno, and are rapidly passing Incisa, Reggello, Pontassieve, Sieci, and other smaller boroughs. All of the sudden you start seeing Florence in the distance, its famous red roofs, its Brunelleschi’s chapel. Shortly you will be in Santa Maria Novella station and this heart opening train journey will be over.
TIP: Since the regional train ticket is valid for six hours after validation, you can take your time stepping off the train at the town of your interest for a day trip in total relax.

More updates on the Carnival of Viareggio, one of the most important in Italy, and certainly the main Carnival of Tuscany. With each passing year the organization becomes ever more grand and interesting, covering all kinds of interests for people of all ages. The number of the events increases and there are more occasions to participate to this wild party that embodies so perfectly the free spirit of Carnival.
Carnival balls have a long history that starts way before that of floats. Public places, such as the Teatro Pacini, the Royal Casino, but also private homes used to be the place of dances. The luxurious palaces of Lucca hosted exclusive receptions. As it was tradition, at midnight there was the dinner with champagne and a large swirl of confetti and streamers, cotillion for the ladies and the final quadrille dance at dawn with competitions for the most beautiful masks.
Here are listed all the Veglioni, or Carnival wakes of 2010, which consist of crazy parties that start at midnight and last all night long with music, dances, games, and drinks. Usually each party has a leading theme.

6th Edition of Gran Gala Miss Giarrettiera Piccante
On Saturday January 30th at 9pm at the Centro Congressi Principe di Piemonte

Welcome to Carnival
On Saturday January 30th at 10pm at the Capannina di Viareggio

Veglione de’ Viareggini
On Friday February 5th at midnight at the Capannina di Viareggio

Confetti Like Crazy
On Saturday February 6th at 9,30pm at the Capannina di Viareggio

Children Wake
On Wednesday February 10th at 3pm and on Thursday February 11th at 3pm at the Centro Congressi Principe di Piemonte

Goodwill Ball “The Sixties and Whereabouts”
On Friday February 12th at 10pm at the Bussola di Focette. By the Italian Leukemia Association

Veglione de’ Viareggini
On Friday February 12th at midnight at Capannina di Viareggio

Burlamacco is Folly
On Saturday February 13th at 9,30pm at the Capannina di Viareggio

Student’s Grand Wake
On Monday February the 15th at 10pm at the Capannina di Viareggio

Le Follie Burlesque
On Tesday Mardi Gras February 16 at 9pm at the Hotel Ristorante Apollo Viareggio

Veglione de’ Viareggini
On Friday February 19th at midnight at Capannina di Viareggio

Fairwell Carnival
On Saturdat February 20th at 9,30pm at Capannina di Viareggio

Take advantage of the Carnival in Tuscany! Make it to Viareggio, and you will discover the joyful side of Tuscany!

It is said that on the Ponte della Maddalena, or Magdalen Bridge, which links the two shores of the Serchio river (the one that flooded parts of the province of Pisa and Lucca around Christmas of 2009) near the town of Borgo a Mozzano, the builder of the bridge himself in 1300 of shook a pact with the devil. He would have been able to finish the work on time with the help of the devil in exchange for the unfortunate soul of the first unlucky being that crossed the bridge. But the priest of the village had an idea. He suggested that the first to cross the bridge should have been a pig, and so it was, leading the devil to disappearing in anger for the scorn.
This is the legend that gave the name to one of the most beautiful and fascinating bridges of Tuscany, the Ponte del Diavolo, or Devil’s Bridge, one of the many mysterious symbols of the Garfagnana.

This land wedged between the Apuan Alps and the Tosco Emilian Appennins, has always been considered magical, for the many stories and suggestive places that characterize it.
Among the crown-jewels to visit in the area is the Grotta del Vento, or Cavern of Wind, an incredible underground complex where you can admire the surreal landscape designed by the secular stratification of the soil.
Going up the limestone gorge of the Orrido di Botri, or the Horrendous of Botri, which are canyons formed by the flow of two streams, you can find incredible natural pools surrounded by silence and nature. If you walk up to reaching 200 meters of altitude you might even be able to encounter a golden eagle.
You must be lucky to see the shapes of the belfry or even more so to walk through the alleys of Vagli. The village was indeed submerged by the artificial dam of Vagli. Only occasionally the basin is emptied for maintenance, and the village can see the daylight once again. The now very old people that grew up there and had to leave the village in the Fifties go back each time they can to revive their memories.
Browsing along in Garfagnana it is impossible not to stop in Barga, also recognized as one of the most beautiful towns in Italy by the Touring Club. It has been the last refuge of the Italian poet Giovanni Pascoli, who he dedicated to this town some of his most beautiful verses and whose house still today is open to visitors.

In Livorno, a land of flavors, sea and culture, you can enjoy the incredible view of the Tyrrhenian Sea through the winding promenade which ends with the Terrazza Mascagni. A terrace, a great square facing the coast of Livorno, donating a breathtaking view. An enchanting sight that allows you to capture the various shades of blue that connect the sea to the sky with a set of indescribable emotions at each sunrise and sunset.
Characteristics are the black and white floor tile, like a giant chessboard, the balustrade consisting of numerous small columns and the Palco della Musica, a beautiful circular temple which once hosted concerts and events. Built in 1925 in honor of Costanzo Ciano, the architecture was not at all affected by the artistic principles of the fascist period.
The Terrazza Mascagni is a point of reference for the Livornesi and visitors alike. The walk from here to the Academy is a unique experience to enjoy that also allows for a deeper understanding and knowledge of the city of Livorno as on the promenade you will see palaces, gardens and historic buildings that are part of the history of this city.

The enchantment of Livorno continues with its canals. The Medici tour of the canals on board of a boat is an opportunity to get to know Livorno from an unusual and suggestive perspective. Navigating through the waterways you will discover an original and distinctive city, with its forts, palaces, churches, bridges and wine cellars that open their doors on water, evidence of an ancient import-export tradition of the city.
The tour starts from the Statua dei Quattro Mori, the work of Pietro Tacca, located in Piazza Micheli and dedicated to Ferdinando I of Medici. The statue symbolizes the victory against piracy in the seas of Tuscany, represented by bronze statues of the four prisoners in chains.
Another impressive place that tourists will be able to visit during the boat tour will be the historic Fortezza Vecchia, an elegant fortress resulting from the many overlapping architectural additions through the centuries. You will also visit the Mastio di Matilde, of which remains the base, the cylindrical tower and the Quadratura dei Pisani. The most impressive part of the tour is the visit of the Venezia district, located in the historic heart of Livorno and designed in the Seventeenth century like an island crossed by bridges and canals. This is very lively for the presence of typical restaurants. It becomes even more spectacular in the summer during the “Effetto Venezia” festival, full of entertainment, good cuisine and typical markets.
For more information and booking contact: phone +39 348 7382094

This is the official Viareggio Carnival program for the year 2010. The program is divided into two parts. The first lists the city-wide celebrations, while the second lists the celebrations made in each district of the city. The inauguration ceremony will be held on January 30th with thousands of people masked through the streets of Viareggio, and the day will end with fireworks.
Celebrations will be held during all weekends until February 21st, the city districts will start celebrating from the afternoon of each Saturday, and the 5 float parades will be held on each Sunday afternoon form 3 pm onwards. Much more will happen in Viareggo during this 2010 carnival edition. Read on!

Saturday, January 30th Solemn inauguration of the 2010 Viareggio Carnival
At 3,30pm parade of masks through the city streets.
At 5pm there will be the flag-rising ceremony and grand finale with fireworks
A delegation from Glasgow, Scotland, will be present and the visit will be honored by the city with a sampling of typical Scottish products.

Grand parades of masks and floats
The giant paper-mache floats, created by the Viareggio masters parade on the wonderful city promenade.

First Parade on Sunday, January 31 at 3pm
Second Parade on Sunday, February 7 at 3pm
Third Parade on Sunday, February 14 at 3pm
Fourth Parade Tuesday on February 16 at 2pm live on national television and a t 4pm will start the night parade.
Fifth Parade on Sunday, February 21 at 5pm

Carnival Long Weekends
Every Saturday before the parade day in Piazza Mazzini there will be music, animation, games and entertainment from 4pm

District Parties
The local districts are the most genuine soul of the Carnival of Viareggio. The districts of the city during the long carnival month transform their streets and squares into theaters with live music and dancing of all kinds, and outdoor cooking where you can taste the delicious typical dishes of Viareggio.

Torre del Lago Puccini District
Open on January 30th and 31st from 6pm to midnight.

Marco Polo District
Open from February 5th until sunday 7thfrom 6pm until midnight.

Terminetto District
On February 9th or the tenth if it rains on the 9th from 3pm until 6pm with the schools parade. It will stay open until 11pm.

Vecchia Viareggio District
An occasion for children, on February 11 from 2 pm to 7pm with the Children’s Carnival

Baccanale Darsena District
From February 12th to the 16th from 6pm until midnight, and on the 13th from 2 to 6pm with the Children’s Carnival.

Croce Verde Centro District
From February 18th to the 21st from 6pm to midnight.

Quattro Venti District
On February 7th and 8th from 5pm until midnight.

The carnival of Viareggio is one of the most beautiful and spectacular of Italy. A great party to be part of!

There is a saying in Italy: Epiphany all festivities carries away. And that’s it, Christmas is over and the carnival period begins today building up momentum with always greater parties, celebrations and street parades that will culminate in the Mardi Gras day, right before ashes Wednesday. Mardi Gras in 2010 will be on Tuesday February 16th. But before we get to that date there are many carnival celebrations in Tuscany that need to be discovered.
Viareggio is ahead of everyone with its famous Carnival parades. The animated floats caricaturing the world famous personages of politics, music, and show biz ironically portray world issues exorcising them with satire and humor. Paper mache artists create 20-plus-meter high sculptures an then animate them with sophisticated mechanisms. The parade will be held in Viareggio on the 7, 14, 16 and 21 of February 2010, and the most beautiful and original creation will receive the much sought for first prize. There will be more to discover on this carnival once the official program is released.
The growing celebrity and importance of the Carnival of Foiano della Chiana makes this little town an important place where to enjoy the 2010 edition. January 31st and February 7, 14 and 21 will be the dates to save to be in Foiano and take part to the great celebrations taking place. This is considered one of the oldest official carnival celebrations of Italy, dating as far back as 470 years ago!
In Castiglion Fibocchi the Carnival of the Sons of Bocco will be held on January 31st and on February 7th, 2010 only. Here the first celebrations are already documented in 1174, but it is 10 years ago that the Sons of Bocco started to be celebrated through the streets of the town. The castle and the alleys of the hamlet are transformed into a magic place, ethereal figures invite visitors in this fairy-tale atmosphere. Masks are delicate and welcoming, unlike many other carnivals that employ satire and caricatures. Here you will feel like in the 18th century, a pleasant ambient that many times has been compared to that of Venice.
Many other events are scheduled during this month and a half of celebrations, and many have to be released. As soon as they are public you are sure to find them here.

The Roman Catholic festivity of Epiphany is celebrated on January 6th. Although it’s religious significance is that of revelation to the world of the coming of Jesus, this festivity has also very strong popular roots and is represented by what in Italy is called the “Befana” (that is also the name of the festivity in the Italian language). This old, ugly lady dressed with torn and very poor clothes comes flying on the back of a broom. Although her appearance is that of a witch, she has a good heart. She comes to reward the good children with small presents like candies of all sorts and small toys, and to bring coal to the bad children, as an admonition and exhortation to behave during the coming year. Often times a relative or a friend dresses up with a mask and appropriate clothing to make an appearance as the “Befana” for the youngest children. Fear and bewilderment mix up in children, which are happy to receive their presents and do not recognize the relative who’s carrying them. Other times, but this is a more international custom, the “Befana” during the night fills the stockings that are left hanging by the fireplace. It is hard to recover the origins of this figure, which has a mix of pagan and mythological origins. Traditionally the figure of “Befana” is burnt, as a small puppet or a huge one in town fairs. The reason might lay in the fact that on January 6th was celebrated the rebirth of nature, dying as an old lady and reborn from it’s own ashes as a young self.
There are many happenings scheduled for the 2010 Epiphany in Tuscany. Since the 6th of January 2010 is falling on a Thursday, there is going to be a long weekend to enjoy day tours and relaxing days at a thermal spa or in a romantic bed and breakfast in the Tuscan countryside.
The entire Tuscan region during the days of the 5th and 6th celebrates with events and town fairs. Among the most significant ones is the Wise Men on Horse in Florence. The three kings will arrive on horse at the cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore after departing from Piazza Pitti and passing by Piazza della Signoria. The parade will stop to bring presents to Christ in the living nativity scene.
Pistoia and its firefighters create great expectation with their “rescue of the Befana”! Each year this event attracts more than 7000 people from everywhere. The poor old lady after loosing control of the broom, winds up on the belfry of the cathedral of Pistoia. After asking for help everywhere she starts calling for the firefighters, that come running in the square with their emergency engine! After securing her, she comes “flying” down in the square where she distributes sweets and candies to children.
The Christmas holidays are almost over, and Epiphany will close these special days of the year. Take advantage of these days to make a short trip to Tuscany to recharge your batteries for a powerful 2010!