Experience Tuscany

This is the second part of the events in Tuscan towns in March 2010. For the first part click here.

The weekends of March 13 and 19 will be celebrated in Fucecchio near Florence the Sagra del Fegatello, or the liver fair. A very typical product, not to be missed if you like liver.

Finally some space for children! On Sunday March 14 Empoli, its squares and alleys will be transformed in a large amusement park for children from 3 pm onwards. Entertainment, workshops, and a puppets theater will complete the fun.

On the same day, the 14th, in Pescia near Pistoia you will be able to taste the delicious Necci at the Sagra del Neccio, made with chestnut flower and filled with fresh ricotta cheese. A delicacy that you have to try!

Degustolio is the extra virgin olive oil tasting event that takes place at the Italian Oenotheque in Siena. The event will be only on March 12.

The town of Sansepolcro celebrates the Fiera di Mezza Quaresima,or half Lent fair, from the 18th to the 21st of March. This antique tradition brings to town any sort of traveling merchants, and on the morning of the 20th it will take place the livestock sale as it used to be in the past.

Cascina di Pisa presents Chocolandia 2010, the chocolate fair that for three days fills the Corso Matteotti with delicacies dedicated to the sweet toothed ones! It starts on the 19th and is open to all.

For those that could not attend the Sagra dl Tartufo Marzuolo in Borgo San Lorenzo, from the 19th to the 28th in Certaldo. Ten days dedicated to this scented gift of nature.

In Cortona, the celebrated Tuscan town near Arezzo, on the 19th of March it will be the turn of the Chianina oxen. Wonderful examples of this gigantic and well-behaved oxen will be on show. 120 of the most beautiful cows and bulls will be displayed.

Near Cavriglia in Castelnuovo dei Sabbioni on the 20th and 21st of March there will be the Festa di Primavera, or spring fair, with two days dedicated to local food and bike excursions of the teritory.

Two truffle events will be on the 20th and 21st of March. One is Volterra and the other in San Miniato di Pisa in Cigoli. Truffle tasting, truffle hunting, and a “class” with notions on how to taste and prepare truffles will be among the interesting events of these fairs. There of ourse will be open air restaurants to taste the delicate entries based on truffles.

In Cala Galera near Monte Argentario from the 20th to the 28th there will be an anticipation of the 2010 summer season with the nautical fair that will have on show hundreds of new and second hand boats for all tastes and pockets. Worth a visit, if only for the wonderful scenery and the nearby Porto Ercole.

So much to see in so many Tuscan towns in March. Food, culture, tradition, religion, and folklore mix up in this wonderful Tuscany to be discovered any time of the year!

With the approaching of the spring season the number of fairs are increasing by the day and moving from indoor locations to the outdoors in piazzas and town streets. There is a great number of Tuscan towns that add to the many events with their local flavor and personal twist their one of a kind fair. Often these fairs are bound to an ancient tradition, while in other cases they are a relatively recent addition to local folklore.
It is impossible to list all the Tuscan town fairs of March here, so you will find a highlight of the main ones, those bound to the territory, so to let you best discover the local culture and history.

In Rignano sull’Arno the Sagra delle Frittelle, or rice fried pancakes, dominates every weekend until March 28. The delicious frittelle will be accompanied by local VinSanto. Also Montespertoli every weekend offers bomboloni and frittelle from March 7 to the 21st.

In Scarperia near Florence the Sagra del Cinghiale, or wild boar fair, is perhaps the first of the year. Opens on March 6 and close on the 14th. All entries are served with boar meat cooked in various ways. Tuscany has a long boar culinary tradition.

From March 11 until the 21st in Arezzo you will find locally brewed artisan beer at the Festa della Birra: live music, good beer and good food will be the protagonists of this event at Teatro Tenda in Arezzo.

On the Abetone mountain on the 13th the spectacular ski torchlight parade will come down the easy and panoramic Selletta slope, all th eway until the main square of the town. Prior to the parade is an early buffet dinner with local products and cinnamon hot wine. The event is open to all.

The weekend of 13 and 14 will finally be the time to discover the black marzolino truffle. This wonderful product is celebrated in Borgo San Lorenzo near Florence with recipes that enhance the taste of truffles.

In Florence is the “Taste” event. Three days at the Stazione Leopolda to discover the traditional tastes of Tuscany and Italy exposed by the best producers selected by the organizers. 190 producers from all over Italy make of this event a must-attend.

From March 13 to the 21st opens the Palio dei Somari, or donkey race, in Torrita di Siena. The Palio is on the 21st, but during the previous weekends the town offers many entertainment occasions.

You should not miss the Torciata of Pitigliano from the 13th to 21st of March. The two weekends are rich of events, and on the 19th a town bonfire burning a dummy made of winter vegetables and other field products is burnt in the main square while a merry go round of people salutes the coming of the new spring season. This is an ancient tradition that has recently been recovered.

More events in Tuscan towns tomorrow…so much to do in Tuscany, so much to write!

Within the last twenty years the Chinese population of Prato has greatly increased to reach estimates of up to 20 thousand residents, although unofficial estimates are much higher. In 1988 there were 31 Chinese residents in Prato, 20 years later things have changed dramatically.
This is the largest Chinese community in Italy. The Prato Chinatown has been recently defined by the Washington Post one of a kind in the world. Indeed here non Asian people and Italians feel awkward, as if they were in China. Here you can find Chinese stores for any necessity. Food, home equipment and kitchen utensils, technology stores, restaurants, gambling places, and more. Some places do not even have Italian speaking personnel and some restaurants only accept Chinese customers. While the latter are of course extremes of a wide array of experiences, Chinatown in Prato is certainly an interesting reality to discover. The main artery is Via Pratese, where the largest and most furnished stores are present. Here everyday it is very hard to spot a wester face, and more often than not if you wish to buy something you need to speak some Chinese or hope a first generation Italian from Chinese parents works in the shop and comes to the rescue.
Why Prato? Well, the city has a long lived textile production history. During the centuries the city has been at the center of innovation and superior craftsmanship as far as the production of new textile materials and techniques is concerned. One example for all was the long lasting relation between the Russian Tsar court and the city. The fame of the town was world wide spread and the Chinese workers of the Zhejiang region, a very poor portion of China but with a long tradition in the textile industry, arrived in Prato to find work in the factories. Their presence was mostly filling black market jobs at the beginning. With time many grew to become entrepreneurs and started calling other Chinese people to Italy to hire them, thus creating an exponential effect. The last decade economic crisis has boosted the Chinese economy in Tuscany, as their products offered on the market have found a renewed interest due to the increasing cost of living. With time production has also improved, and if fifteen years ago “made in China” was synonym of the cheapest quality, nowadays things have changed radically.
Of course there still are many negative aspects that any integration process brings along. Some put off the newcomers capitalizing on cliches and local news reporting crime stories. The process has started nevertheless, and it is encouraging to see Italian and Chinese getting married, and the first or second generation Italians of Chinese descent embrace both cultures equally with all the difficulties that that also embodies.
A stroll in Via Pratese in Prato, Tuscany, certainly is an interesting experience to make. Whenever you are in Florence or are visiting the historic center of Prato, take an extra step towards this section of town. There you will find thousands of imported goods and foods from China, and will live a very contemporary reality of Tuscany.

Yet another contest to spend few days in Tuscany for free in a wonderful setting, pampered in first class hotels, tasting the best Tuscan food in renown restaurants, and shopping like crazy in the most beautiful boutiques and interesting shops of Florence and Siena. This is what offers the “Taste and Shopping” contest, the latest opportunity given by the Tuscany region to win a splendid vacation in Tuscany.
Like usual, participating is a swift, and this time it’s fun too. You just need to register with a 5 seconds procedure then solve an easy Memory-like game. Flip the cards and match the twin ones. When done you will be prompted to insert your details and participate in the sweepstakes that is held on April 5, 2010.
The contest is particularly targeted to those who love fashion, food, typical Tuscan products and shopping. The territory around Florence and Siena will host the three prizes to be won. Three stays that offer rich opportunities to discover the best of Tuscany: from shopping to hiking tours through castles and farms, from wine and food tastings to free museum visits. You will get to know the best wineries, taste world famous wines and taste the typical Tuscan cuisine.
The first prize consists of four nights in the Chianti for two people in a superior room bed and breakfast, shopping excursion and wine tour and tasting with driver, VIP lunch and free museum tickets.
The second prize will take you for two nights in the Montalcino and Montepulciano area, accommodated in a superior room B&B for two people, touring Brunello wine farms with tastings, traditional Tuscan lunch in montalcino, cheese tasting and visit in Pienza, and free museum tickets.
The third prize consists of a two night stay in the Livorno Maremma region for two people in a superior room B&B. It is included the visit with driver of the Antinori wine farm with wine tasting, lunch in a traditional Bolgheri restaurant, local products farm visit, and free museum entrances.
Start immediately here, you will be in in just seconds. Good luck!

For the weekend of Saint Lucia in Tuscany, which tradition holds to be the shortest day of the year (as the saying goes, “Saint Lucia, the shortest day of the year”), there is a hive of events of all kinds. First of all the Christmas spirit can be felt with the many Christmas street markets and nativity scenes. In addition there are food and wine events, fairs, and country town festivals. Among the food and wine events, it is necessary to remind the Honey Fair in Arezzo, and Winter Goblets in Massa Marittima.
Crossing fingers, hoping that temperatures will lower a bit and snow will start to fall a bit, the Holiday season atmosphere will be perfect. Below is a list of the prominent events and fairs taking place during the coming weekend, a great occasion to buy special presents for Christmas.

Starting today and ending on Sunday the 13th is Winter Goblets, the winter edition of Goblets of stars held all over Tuscany and Italy during the month of August. The winter edition will be in Massa Marittima, and dedicated to the Monteregio wine. From 4 pm to 11 pm it will be possible to taste Tuscan cold cuts, cheeses, and other local productions in addition to wine.

Also from the 11th to the 13th is the Portici Gustosi in Casciana di Pisa. Italian typical products from all over the country will be present at this tasty event. There will also be moments of entertainment for children. A perfect occasion to gather the tasty Christmas presents to gift to your loved ones.

On the 12th and 13th in Monte San Savino near Arezzo will be held the Christmas market and “zero mileage” local products. From 4,30 pm on the 12th there will be the Christmas concert in Logge Sansovino, then in Corso Sangallo the local products market, then in the Cloister the Christmas market and along the Pieve walls there will be free roasted chestnuts, castagnaccio and wine. On the 13th from 4,30 pm in the Logge of Sansovino there will be free corn meal and wine, free fettunta or bruschetta with wine, the markets will be repeated and in Corso Sangallo Santa Claus will be there for children.

In Pisa from the 12th to the 13th will be held the Pisa Unica Terra di Vino. The 13th year of this festival celebrating the wine of these lands. Ideally following the route from inland to the sea, with a 10 euro glass you will be guided by expert sommeliers to the tasting of all the best wines of the area.

The 23rd year of the Honey Fair in Arezzo will take place from the 12th to the 13th in Piazza Risorgimento with honey samplings, sale of all the products from the beehive, and a hands on demonstration of honey extraction and processing with the real machinery employed. The entrance is free on both days. Better to be there on Sunday for longer opening hours from 10 am to 7 pm.

Finally the wonderful Fiesole above Florence hosts the “Artingegno” or artingenuity, the unique Tuscan craftsmanship fair dedicated entirely to Christmas productions. It will be held only on Sunday the 13th, so mark the date!

Be sure to be at least at one of these wonderful Christmas markets and fairs in Tuscany, you will taste the local culture, discover new delicious towns and taste incomparably genuine local products.

It is always a hard task to find a Holiday present that will satisfy the needs and taste of both the giver and the receiver. You may find something you do not particularly like to gift, but then you are not certain the receiver would dislike it. So in the end one is drawn towards the gifts and ideas she likes best, assuming her judgment cannot be that far from what the receiver likes. However, many times we have seen that something we have presented did not really meet the expectations of the person we are giving the gift to. It is agreed that gifts should come from the heart and that it does not matter what is given, the receiver will be happy with it. Unfortunately we all know that is not always the case.
So you have to find something original, yet useful, not to expensive perhaps, yet fine looking, and certainly not cumbersome. What better than a gift from Tuscany? The local craftsmanship, culinary tradition, and mastery in making works of art from the simple objects of life continuously creates many gift ideas that you can take advantage of for your Holiday presents. Of course you will find any price range, from the most expensive leather bags crafted in Florence, to the less financially demanding gourmet basket. In any case you are sure to find what is most attuned to the gift receiver. You may even initiate that person to the wonders of Tuscany, should she not be familiar with this Italian region.
The best thing to gift someone with would be food. Firstly it is always welcome, and notoriously good from Tuscany. Secondly, quite inexpensive. A nice gourmet basket will make everyone happy. Care to load it with a small bottle of Tuscan extra virgin olive oil, a pack of Cantuccini biscuits, a bottle of sweet wine Vinsanto, a pack of handmade pici pasta, and one or two jars of handmade pasta sauce. Choose the wild boar or hare sauce for meat lovers, and with mushrooms or Aglione for non meat lovers. The list could be much longer, but these items will entertain the receiver for quite a bit.
Another great idea is to present a terracotta table set. There are many kinds and for the most varied uses. You can simply go for the small bowls, great for serving traditional Tuscan dishes, or for the more elaborate and hand painted water and wine sets from San Gimignano.
As mentioned, a leather item from Florence will for sure encounter the favors of many, just like any other item from the artisan Florentine shops. Gracefully shaped glass art pieces and everyday usage bottles and glasses, restored antique items, and finally unique gold and silver jewels created with the lost wax technique.
Perhaps even a simple book on Tuscany can open a new window on the world, here you will find four popular suggestions.
Lastly, the ever welcomed wine from Tuscany. You have a huge variety to choose from, but to make sure your gift is successful choose from a Chianti Felsina, Brunello Banfi, Sassicaia Bolgheri, or a Vernaccia from San Gimignano. Three reds and a white chardonnay to toast to happy Holidays and a happy New Year!

It may seem out of scope to write about books on Tuscany on the blog that talks about Tuscany! Books have their own special place of course, and while this blog tries to give as much information on Tuscany as it can, books will always give a much rounder picture of this wonderful region. Having said that, don’t stop reading Experience Tuscany! Or at least not before having read about some of the most popular books on Tuscany.
Below is a selection of books that are pleasurable easy reads. Some of them give a classic image of this Italian region, some others present a wittier take on the subject. All of them make for a surely appreciated Christmas present.

Under The Tuscan Sun: It had to be the first one. An awarded novel, made into a little less awarded movie, Francis Mayes’ book on Tuscany is impregnated by her first hand experiences on the land where she has bought a house that she wants to restore and live in. The book has two sequels, Bella Tuscany, and In Tuscany. The latter is a more reflective and less anecdotal writing on what makes Tuscany the land it is and the welcoming traits of most Tuscan people and their lifestyle.

Too Much Tuscan Sun: The ironic and witty response to Mrs. Mayes’ books. Dario Castagno is the Tuscan author, raised in England until 9, and a former tourist guide that has traveled the Chianti with his American customers for twelve years collecting thousands of experiences. He recounts the prominent ones that are sure to please and entertain those in search of an easy read that sheds no real insight on the Tuscan land but gives a precious external point of view to ponder with self-irony. Two sequels follow the book. A Day in Tuscany: More Confessions of a Chianti Tour Guide and Too Much Tuscan Wine.

A Vineyard in Tuscany: A Wine Lover’s Dream: The first hand experience of the author Ferenc Mate who decides to buy and restore an ancient friary in Tuscany with a large plot of land attached. He will transform a portion of this land into a vineyard, a toilsome job that stimulates his need for adversity. The book moves along the hole life experience of the author and his family until the final satisfaction of harvesting the grapes and creating his own wine label. Definitely to be read with a bottle of Chianti.
From the same author is also The Wisdom of Tuscany: Simplicity, Security & the Good Life.

A Thousand Days in Tuscany: A Bittersweet Adventure: Marlena DeBlasi is the author of this book that will ring a bell to those who have read her A Thousand Days in Venice. She and her husband move to Tuscany to buy an old house to be restored, and have to face many adversities but are also startled by many inspiring surprises. It is a reflective book that draws from a life experience to reveal how the drops of despair alternating to the height of felicity represent the salt of life. Love, friendship, flavors, tradition and courage are the ingredients of a book where recipes conclude each chapter and Italian dialogs (with English translation) teach you the basics for your first visit to Italy.

The Immaculate Conception is the Catholic dogma that recognizes the virginity of the mother of Christ, and is celebrated on December 8 every year. It is therefore a nice happening when, like this year, it is on a Tuesday, creating a much awaited long weekend stretching from Friday to Tuesday. This is also the day that Christmas celebrations officially begin. The historic centers of cities and towns are being adorned with lights and animated with Christmas carols. Street markets liven up the streets during the whole holiday. The colorful world of craft creations and gift ideas snuggle in perfectly with the candid atmosphere of Christmas.
In Torrita di Siena events for children and theme dinners for grown ups are being prepared, with a special focus on vintage toys, handicraft products and decorations. A big surprise is being prepared in Palazzuolo sul Senio, the village of a thousand nativity scenes. Every corner in town is adorned with a Nativity scene, all different and all hand made. In Florence one can enjoy the characteristic Florence Noel, with its vinsanto and cantucci, in addition to the nostalgic Heidelberg German Christmas Market with beer and březen in Piazza Santa Croce. Pisa is hosting its market in the wonderful Loggia dei Banchi, while in Calenzano, the city of toys, vintage toys are displayed and sold to let adults return children for at least a day.

This long weekend will also be rich of exhibits with painting, sculpture, and collections that are not always available to the general public. Chagall and the Mediterranean in Pisa, Montecatini Terme with Il Nuovo Dopo la Macchia, Florence with Inganni ad Arte, Siena with the color of Federico Barrocci, Prato with the Tzar collection, Chianciano with the Mummy and Egyptian findings, and Grosseto with the Etruscans are just the main ones to enjoy.

Good food is also having its appropriate share of the spotlight, since it is well known how the culture of a place is inevitably complemented by its cuisine. There are special initiatives that tie the pleasures of the table with the territory they are born from. Two special trains, one is the Train of Flavors, on December 6, crossing the unspoilt Garfagnana visiting medieval villages where traditions are still alive and authentic. On December 8 Trenonatura that travels in the Sienese countryside. Vintage train coaches attached to ancient steam locomotives lead travelers on a unique journey in time.
Those traveling through the Sienese Crete will also find the nice surprise of restaurants offering discounts on the typical dishes of the territory.

There is very little that one cannot do in Tuscany during this long weekend, and if one adds the Versilia with its classy shops and live night scene, or the many thermal spas that dot Tuscany and offer great relaxation, the next thing to do is to reserve a flight to Tuscany!

The month of November is the perfect time for gastronomic fairs in Tuscany. Chestnuts, truffles and the new oil dominate dining tables and kitchens with their flavors. There are many events dedicated to the delicacies of the season in the province of Florence, in particular in the Mugello area, with many fairs devoted to good food and traditional tastes.
Borgo San Lorenzo hosts the premium production of truffles, a yearly appointment that usually takes place during the mid November. At Villa Galeazzo is held the market and exhibit dedicated to truffles in Mugello; a remarkable two-days event dominated by white truffles, food kiosks, guided truffle breeding ground tours, truffle-hunting demonstrations with trained dogs and roundtables on the topic. The market exhibit is also an opportunity to promote local products such as olive oil, wine, honey, meats, fruits and artisan cheeses.
Those finding themselves near Montespertoli around the same period in November can participate to the White Truffle exhibit. White truffles are much more precious and scented than their black counterpart, although less strong in taste. Montespertoli offers a double appointment on the same days. The olive harvest has come to its last days and the first delicious new oil is celebrated with the manifestation Paneolio.
The production of extra virgin olive oil in this area is one of the most prestigious of Italy. The oil is pressed and sold directly by manufacturers during fairs and celebrations that so much resemble those of the old tradition. It is a perfect example of “zero mile supply chain” that preserves great quality and low costs with minimal environmental impact. If you would like to purchase some of this delicious, fresh olive oil, the best thing is to be at one of the events dedicated to sampling and purchasing that happen throughout the month of November.
During mid November the public roads of Bagno a Ripoli are going to be invaded by oil producers of the area with the event called “Primolo”, or first oil.
Vinci, the city of Leonardo, celebrates its olive oil production with a festival in the city center on mid November. Just around the same time, in San Casciano Val di Pesa the new oil is tasted during the Biological market called Il Pagliaio. On November 22 you ought to be in Mercatale Val di Pesa to celebrate the Fettunta, also known as Bruschetta. Calenzano from November 21 to the 29 offers an imposing fair, while at the end of the month Montaione celebrates bread and olive oil in the city center on November 29.

Florence offers to its visitors plenty of choice when it comes to shopping. There are city center areas that it is important to know for shopping purposes. For purchases that involve quite some involvement, the street to be in is Via Tornabuoni, once the show off “living room” of the city, where you can find the big names of fashion and master jewelers creations. Unfortunately, this street has recently witnessed the closure of ancient traditional shops. Pricey purchases can also be done in the nearby Via della Vigna Nuova.
Fortunately, historical Florentine shops are still available. The antique shops stocked with all sorts of antiquities are mainly concentrated in Via dei Fossi and Via Maggio. Here you can find precious Tuscan pieces to style your home without spending a fortune. Near and on Ponte Vecchio are the goldsmiths and jewelers, with their characteristic shops.
One of the most characteristic areas of Florence begins at Oltrarno, just after the Ponte Vecchio, in the district of Santo Spirito, with its small rooms and laboratories and workshops of wood creations, handmade jewelry, lamps, metal vases, the classic Florentine straw hats and many other original creations. In Santo Spirito square every second Sunday of the month takes place a market of national and ethnic crafts. In the nearby district of San Frediano, always in Oltrarno, you can find some of the greatest shops of the Florentine tradition of craftsmanship. This is the realm of furnishing fabrics, handcrafted and hand decorated silver works, hand-made shoes, and vintage style glassware.
Florence is also known for leather goods like handbags, shoes and clothing. Leather goods shops are mainly concentrated in the district of Santa Croce.
With a bit of luck and rummaging you can purchase a great catch at the flea market of Piazza dei Ciompi. The Porcellino market, in Piazza Calimala, was once known primarily for straw items, and it now also offers various leather goods and hand embroidery items.
Those who love browsing through endless kiosks should not miss out on the Tuesday market at Cascine park or the San Lorenzo market everyday in Piazza San Lorenzo and Mercato Centrale where you can buy souvenirs, clothes, bags. The latter also has two floors of covered market, housed in a beautiful Liberty-style iron and glass facility, offering a wide choice of gourmet food. The market of Sant’Ambrogio also offers an open and closed market with all sorts of groceries.
The market not to be missed is that of artisans with their colorful kiosks in the Garden of Piazza dei Ciompi.