Experience Tuscany

An extremely easy recipe that will make many happy. If you are looking for a new type of biscuit, or something to eat along your sweet wine at the end of a meal, this will be perfect.

Ingredients:150 grams of butter – 100 grams of sugar, 200 grams of dry biscuits – 2 egg yolks, 2 tablespoons of unsweetened cocoa powder – 2 tablespoons of coffee.

Preparation:
Roughly break the biscuits in a bowl. In another bowl beat the egg yolks and mix well with the sugar, then add the melted butter, coffee, cocoa and finally the broken up biscuits. Pour the mix on tinfoil. Shape the mixture into a salami, wrapping it in the tinfoil. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Serve cut into thick slices, just like salame.

The Chianti Sculpture Park is Piero Giadrossi’s dream come true: after visiting a sculpture exhibition in Cape Town’s botanical gardens, he decided to recreate that magical dialog between art and nature in the thirteen hectares of woodland that he had bought in Chianti.
Supported by a Sienese artistic committee, he began to invite artists to get familiar with the environment and propose a work of art. There was no specific theme or thread: every artist was encouraged to create a site-specific project, a work forming a strong and direct relationship with its environment.

The artists have gone beyond the use of traditional materials, choosing the most diverse expressive media. Glass was used for two works. “The Blue Bridge” by the Danish artist Ursula Christiansen Reuteh, which introduces the exhibition space, is a bright blue bridge contrasting with the monochrome maquis.
“Pure Energy“, by the Greek artist Costas Varotsos, is a structure similar in force to Chianti’s cypresses, expressing energy in the almost vortex-like overlapping of green glass fragments.
The English artist William Furlong used stainless steel for his “Off the Beaten Track“, sixteen cubes arranged in couples from which emerge the sounds of Siena’s streets and squares.
A dramatic iron sculpture by the Indonesian artist Dolorosa Sinaga, “Faith and lllusion“, is a human figure between two elements made of iron rods. The artist alludes to the plight of poorer populations, crushed by economic progress.
According to the poetics of Kitsch, Vincent Leow protests against the artificial manipulation of animals with his herd of multicolored fiber-optics cows, “The Milk Factory“.
The Zimbabwe born artist Dominic Benhura, unites the children of all nations in the universal game, “Leap Frog“: with this work, the artist, exponent of the art of the African Shona tribe, establishes a link with the Western world.
The curator has chosen to stress the international character of contemporary art, choosing artists from all over the world, many of whom are women and young artists. The twenty-four artists collaborated with local artisans for the creation of their works, which coexist harmoniously with the natural environment. The old brick kiln has been transformed into an art gallery, where smaller works are exhibited, many by the artists whose works are in the park.
Opening:
The park gates open from April to October, every day until sunset; from November to March it is advisable to book. Find the park at Locality La Fornace, SP 9 Pievasciata Phone: +39 0577 357151 email: info@chiantisculpturepark.it Website: www.chiantisculpturepark.it

Finding the Sculpture Park of Chianti:

View Chianti Sculpture Park in a larger map

Following the first Florence tour itinerary, here is a second suggestion that will get you going in Florence for a day or two. If you feel a little overwhelmed by the city’s amount of things to do and see, this will be a nice suggestion to follow and focus on not-to-be-missed sights.

Start in Piazza del Duomo, the Cathedral’s Square. Enter inside the Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral, a 1289 project by the architect Arnolfo di Cambio, while the facade is from the 19th century by De Fabris. The feeling of stark majesty pervading the interior is enhanced by the oversize pillars Each chapel includes famous paintings by Quattrocento and Renaissance artists like Paolo Uccello and Vasari. The remarkable dome was projected by Brunelleschi, while the crypt of the cathedral can be visited to discover the remains of the antique Florentine cathedral, catacombs, and the tomb of Brunelleschi.
Exit the Duomo and observe the splendid Campanile di Giotto, Giotto’s Belltower. The artist worked on the project from 1334 until his death, and although the statues were completed by Andrea Pisano, they are a project of Giotto. The belfry can be climbed up to the top at 85 meters from the soil, a wonderful view over Florence.
The Baptistery is rarely open to admire its splendid frescoed interiors and ceiling. It was built around the 5th century, and all its sculpted doors are famous works of art by Pisano and Ghiberti. The latter, with his son, created the magnificent Porta del Paradiso, as Michelangelo called it, or Gates of Paradise. The golden door represents biblical scenes from the old testament, and the two artists can be seen self represented towards the center. If you want to know some curiosity about the baptistery, read this article.
Before leaving the Duomo square, enter the Cathedral Museum, where a collection of all the operas that used to be in the cathedral, the belfry and the baptistery. Here you will find the originals of the belfry, teh unfinished and touching Pietà by Michelangelo, and Donatello’s Mary Magdalene, among many others.

Now walk on Via Calzaioli to get to the Orsanmichele Church, where you will find the celebrated tabernacle of the Madonna delle Grazie, by Orcagna.

Continue along Via Calzaioli to get to Piazza della Signoria. Admire the impressive statues of Neptune in its fountain by Ammannati, Giambologna’s equestrian statue of Cosimo de’ Medici, and the Loggia dei Medici, where is the Perseus by Cellini, and Giambologna’s Rape of the Sabine Women, among others.
The interiors of the Palazzo Vecchio, are best described here.

One step away, walking past the Loggia, you will be in front of the Uffizi Gallery, a complex of thematic rooms that will take most of your time during this itinerary. The museum includes seven hundred years of Italian and international art. It is divided into 45 rooms that group paintings and sculptures sprouting from the same artistic movement. Just to name a few “blockbusters”, here you will find Botticelli’s Birth of Venus and the Allegory of Spring, The Doni Tondo, Lippi’s Virgin and Child, annunciations by Giotto and Leonardo, and Maestas by Duccio and Raffaello.

Here the Florence Tour Map:

View Untitled in a larger map

In 1972 four families from Rome bought the Castle of Ama, replanting a good part of its 55 hectares of vineyards. The objective was to produce a Chianti that could compete with the most prestigious wines. The fermentation cellar was completed in 1979 with a conception so advanced that it is considered to this day a model cellar.
In 1982 the technical management of the estate was handed to the young agronomist Marco Pallanti, now one of Tuscany’s most respected oenologists, acclaimed as “Winemaker of the year” in the Guida dei Vini d’ltalia 2003 published by Gambero Rosso and Slow Food. Ten years of careful research have singled out the potentials of the land in order to optimize the production.The subdivision of the plots into smaller homogeneous parts and the monitoring of the ripening process indicated the road to follow: the land allotted to Sangiovese vines by the DOC regulations to the estate was too much and new borders were defined, with quality in mind.
Sangiovese, grown here at 500 meters of altitude, ripens in late October, therefore it was imperative to plant it on the plots that received most sunlight. Parallel to this, the estate began to experiment with non-local varieties, such as Merlot, Chardonnay an Pinot to be planted on the plots unsuitable for Sangiovese – grape types with the potential express the characteristics of Ama’s terroir.
From 1982 to 1987 about 50,000 vines were regrafted. At Castello di Ama, the vineyards themselves determine the commercial and oenological choices, through the quality of the grapes and of the wine. The decision taken back in the 1970s to only use Sangiovese grapes to produce Chianti Classico appellation wines was fundamental.
At the same time Ama started to produce Supertuscans, which proved the great potential of this territory’s vocation for wine-making. Quality is the only true selling point of Castello di Ama to its knowledgeable and passionate clientele. For Lorenza Sebasti, managing director, this total commitment to quality is where business ethics, transparency and fair profit meet.
With the selection of specific varieties for each vineyard, started in 1978, Castello di Ama introduced the concept of “cru” till then unheard of in Chianti and, most importantly, emphasized the wealth of the varieties and of the terroir.
Through the years the vintages of the Bellavista and the Casuccia vineyards have proved how eclectic this wonderful grape variety, Sangiovese, can be within one appellation. Produced only in excellent years and in limited quantity, these wines are among the best interpretations of Chianti in terms of purity, authenticity and complexity. The same can be said about the only two non-Chianti reds, L’Apparita, made from Merlot grapes, and Il Chiuso, made from Pinot: international varieties, with strong personalities, which represent Castello di Ama’s contribution to the renewal of tradition. Finally,the white wine Al Poggio, missing from the tradition of Chianti, the Rosato and the Vinsanto complete Ama’s production.

The road to the Castle of Ama Chianti Farm in Tuscany:

View Ama Castle Chianti Wine in a larger map

Where should I base myself in Tuscany? If you are thinking of visiting Tuscany there is a high chance for this question to pop in your mind. The answer is not based on one single factor. There a number of aspects that come into play.

Your base in Tuscany will be located depending on the sights you want to visit (categorize, prioritize, then choose). A guide book, or an online travel guide will help you decide your focus area. Think about how many daytrips you will take according to your length of stay. Take a look at these destinations, then pick a central area convenient to all your trips.

You should also consider your means of transportation. Are you going to be visiting countryside places? Then you will need to rent a car. However, if driving is not your treat you can hire a private driver service.
Some prefer to go with public transportation, however that bears natural limits. Bus transportation in Tuscany is unevenly capillary, with large rural areas being poorly serviced, while others are very serviced. Do a web search for your destinations and the bus services in those places. Is there a local company? Call them or write to them, they will be helpful.
Train transportation in Italy and Tuscany is quite good, with many small towns being serviced. However, in most cases you will find that the train station is located at the foot of the hill, and the actual station name has the word “scalo” attached to the town name. As a rule of thumb “scalo” is the station area. Take Castelnuovo Berardenga, for example. The station is located several miles away and is called “Castelnuovo Berardenga Scalo” but is considered part of the main town. Fucecchio, on the other side, has its train station “downtown”. Take that into consideration.
Lastly, if you will focus on large urban areas (as Siena, Florence, Pisa), simply pick a place in its vicinities, it will have good public transportation.

What type of accommodation do you want? Country villas and farmhouse apartments are placed in beautiful scenic places, but they are not convenient to shops. While some houses are walking distance to town, a car may be useful for your daily errands (grocery, post office, pharmacy, etc.) as rural houses in Tuscany are just that, rural! In some cases it may take a several miles walk just to get to the outskirts of a town, and the naturally hilly territory can present challenging uphills to climb with your grocery bags. In most cases, though, you will find it impossible to walk anywhere, and a car becomes vital for your holiday in Tuscany.
You may also decide to stay in a village, city, or a town. If your goal is to relax and take few or no daytrips, then a village or town house is perfect and you will not need a car, which becomes a necessity if you plan daily excursions.
A city accommodation, on the other side, is best lived without a car, as you will have restaurants, shops, museums and events a step away without parking hassles. Many decide to hit Florence as their first Tuscan approach. The city is definitely best experienced without a car. Expensive and inconvenient parking coupled with difficult circulation and resident-only areas make the city perfect for walking and biking tours. Now with bike sharing you can even have a bike for free! All major areas of interest are in pedestrian areas, and bus transportation perfectly serves Florence outskirts, such as the highly popular Fiesole.

Where is the Tuscan scenery? The smooth rolling hills are located in the valleys. Asciano Valley, Valdichiana, Valdorcia, and the territories declining to the sea all present an open and sparsely wooded character. The northern and easternmost part of Tuscany are closer to the Apennines. Here you will find more woodlands and defined altitudes, with some rocky scenery. The Chianti region, somewhat in the middle, presents a mix of the two sceneries, with large vineyards and olive tree covered hills. The coast is a splendid portion of Tuscany, which combines the beauty of hillside and seaside landscapes with a higher average of fair days. The Maremma region offers splendid panoramas.

Your budget also comes into play. The natural choice would be to go with direct booking rentals by owner as they are less expensive, although some prefer an established company to warrant against bad surprises. A cross web search and some customer review will usually be more than enough to clear all doubts. If you are undecided between a private villa and a farmhouse agriturismo you should consider how important privacy, space sharing, and pricing are to you. Hotels and B&Bs are usually the most expensive choice. In some cases famhouses can be noisy due to the farm work being daily carried out, although many provide country apartments in a quite environment and lower prices.

750 years ago, almost to date, one of the most cruel battles between Siena and Florence was fought in Montaperti, near Siena. Dante in the Divine Comedy describes the battle of Montaperti as “The havoc and the great slaughter, which dyed the Arbia red” (see quote). It was the bloodiest defeat suffered by the Florentines in the wars against Siena.
Celebrated in Sienese historiography as the worst humiliation inflicted upon Florence, then one of the richest and most powerful cities in Italy, today it is no longer considered by historians a true battle, but rather an ambush on the Florentine army marching towards Montalcino.

After an initial victory in the spring of 1260 over the German knights in the service of Siena, the Florentines planned an expedition to help Montalcino with troops and provisions: the town was being besieged by Siena because of its strategic position, controlling the via Francigena. All men between the ages of 15 and 70 from the city and from the countryside, were summoned to arms. These men, together with militias sent by the allied cities of Prato, Volterra, Colle, San Gimignano and Bologna, formed an army of 30,000.
Each “popolo”, the territory belonging to a church, had to give the army a quantity of grain in proportion to its population and to the area’s production. The Road Archives of the Florentine army, a document unique in its kind, is a direct report of what happened in August 1260. The documents, drawn up by the army’s one hundred notaries who punctually recorded all events, are collected in the “Libro di Montaperti“, which is kept in the Florence State Archives. The soldiers’ journey took in the whole of Chianti.
The army set off from Florence on the 21 or 22 of August through Porta Romana, passing Galluzzo and Tavarnuzze; after Montebuoni it crossed the river Greve over a precarious bridge, probably made of wood. After passing the town of Sant’Andrea in Percussina, it stopped in San Casciano, where it found new conscripts and provisions. From here, following the course of the Pesa, which it crossed at Sambuca, the army reached the second stop, San Donato in Poggio, where it set up camp.
On the 29th of August the soldiers were at Ricavo, less than a day’s walk from San Donato, and then reached Fonterutoli, where they set up camp in a place then called Monsanese, along the road to Vagliagli. Instead of heading towards Siena, the Florentine militias moved towards Pievasciata. From here a diplomatic mission was sent to intimidate the Sienese into unconditional surrender; according to Sienese historians the terms were so humiliating as to be unacceptable. Once the news of the mission’s failure came back, the army set off again towards Montalcino, passing by Pianella.
On September 4 at Montaperti, it was probably preparing to set up camp when the enemy struck its surprise attack. The Sienese, far fewer in number, gathered their army at Porta San Viene, today’s Porta Pispini, and sent forth the German knights, engaged by Manfred of Swabia, King of Sicily. These experienced mercenaries, who had been promised double pay, attacked the Florentines both from the vanguard and the left flank. The huge army hardly had time to react: the rudimentary arms of their foot-soldiers, pitchforks, hatchets and axes, and the bulk of the supplies they were carrying to Montaicino hindered their maneuvers.
According to Giovanni Villani, the 14th century historian, Florentine casualties were more than 2500 and the prisoners more than 1500. Thus modern historians consider Montaperti an ambush rather than a battle fought according to military rules.

This year in the town of Monteaperti will be celebrated a grand revival of the battle starting on August 26 and ending September 5, 2010.

The site of the Battle of Montaperti, in Monteaperti near Siena:

View Battle of Montaperti in a larger map

You are about to go to Tuscany and are going to stay in a non-self-catered accommodation, like a hotel, b&b, and the likes. Therefore you will be eating out most of the time, and very probably it will be in Tuscan restaurants.
The problem is that you have some kind of food allergy or intolerance, such as to lactose or gluten, by far the most common, which may hinder your chances of eating a satisfactory meal that does not include wheat or milk products.

However fear not, as in the great majority of Tuscan restaurants you will find satisfactory alternatives for your meals. Some restaurants are becoming more and more aware that they need to keep a small stack of gluten-free products (as pasta, bread, flour) for celiacs, while many others are very willing to accommodate your necessities.
You will find that Tuscan cheese is mainly from sheep milk (pecorino cheese) which, unlike cow milk, lactose intolerant people tend to tolerate. Cow milk is used in pasta sauces (small to none in quantity), bechamel (white sauce for lasagnas and similar), and of course in sweets, cakes and pastry preparations, ice creams, and chocolate products. Second courses are usually gluten and lactose free, with some exceptions like the Milanese veal cutlet, the ossobuco (not always), and saltimbocca to name the most popular. Side dishes are a quite safe alternative, being mainly vegetable based mostly seasoned with olive oil, vinegar and herbs. There is no creamy sauce in salads in Italy, especially in Tuscany, nor bread crumbs (whoever invented the Caesar salad must have visited another country!). In addition all side dishes are never brought on the same serving plate as the second course, so if you make a mistake and are suspicious you can still eat your entry and send back the side dish.
As far as sweets you do not have to forgo them entirely. Ice cream shops will serve delicious sorbettos (egg white, water, sugar and fruit), and pastry shops have spumoni, made with egg white and sugar, or the famous amarettos, with almond, egg white and sugar.

“Ok, but how do I make sure I make myself understood?”

The solution is pretty straight forward, and entails simply asking the restaurant what food alternatives they have, telling them about your food intolerance. They know exactly what to do and will help you if you make them aware. They feel and are responsible for your health after you made it clear to them. Ultimately, their goal is to make you happy and be happy, therefore if they can keep the customer they will show you all the alternatives, otherwise they will politely tell you that they cannot satisfy you. So do not be afraid, ask. Most places in Tuscany speak English nowadays, especially in Florence, Siena and other tourist cities.

However, here is the basic Italian sentences you will need if no English is spoken.

The best thing to practice the pronunciation is listening to it. Google translate does a great job at pronouncing few words at a pinch for you. Here the link.

If you find it hard to learn and remember the words, just write the sentences above on cards and bring them along when you go out to eat in a Tuscan restaurant.
And do not be afraid of speaking Italian. You will make the day of almost any Italian that hears you just trying to speak his language!

The preparation of fresh pasta was once a Saturday ritual in the Tuscan home.
The flour was mixed with egg yolks, sometimes including the whites, and a little water. It was turned into different dishes, such as ravioli and pappardelle.
Tuscan ravioli are filled only with ricotta and spinach. Pappardelle are simply thicker tagliatelle. A variety of sauces dressed the pasta: the classic beef ragout, hare sauce if the hunting party had been successful, or duck sauce made from the so called nana, always present in old Tuscan farmyards.

This is the basic preparation for egg pasta dough.

Ingredients:
500 grams of flour, 3 eggs, water, salt

Preparation:
Place the flour in a heap on a flat surface, make a well in the center and crack the eggs into it, adding water and salt. Pour very little water at the beginning, and add more only if the dough needs more moisture while you are kneading it. Mix together and knead with energy until all the ingredients have blended into a smooth and silky dough. Make a ball with the dough, wrap it in a tea clot and leave it to rest for 15 minutes. Roll out as thinly as possible into sheets, using a rolling pin. If you have a hand pasta machine, this is the time to pull it out, as you will have a hell of a time rolling it out even and flat by hand. If you want to do it the original way, use a rolling pin.

The sheets of pasta should be left to dry for about 40 minutes, flat on the kneading table. Then roll each sheet into a 7 to 8 centimeters (3 inches) long roll. Keep the rolls small, about 2 centimeters and a half (an inch) in diameter. Now with a sharp even-blade knife cut each roll in stripes.

Depending on the size of the pasta you want to make, you will need to make cuts of different sizes. Follow these measurements:
Taglierini: very close cuts of 2 to 4 millimeters
Tagliatelle: 6 millimeter slices
Pappardelle: slices of over one centimeter (half inch)

Now open up the little sliced rolls and lay the resulting pasta ribbons on a cloth to dry before cooking.
To cook, fill a large pot with water and bring to boiling point over a high flame, then add salt and throw in the pasta. As soon as the pasta comes up to the surface, drain it and add the sauce.

This rolled out dough is also the base for all types of pastas with a filling (ravioli, tortellini, etc.).

The olive tree dates back to the 8th millennium BC: it spread from Asia Minor to the whole of the Mediterranean basin. The Egyptians considered it a gift from the gods and the Phoenicians contributed to its diffusion by drying olives to eat during their long seafaring journeys. They sold oil as fuel for the lamps which they also exported and called it “liquid gold” We know that the Etruscans used olive oil from the recovery of oil vessels and wall paintings dating back to the 7th century BC, showing dancing figures adorned with olive branches. They mainly used it for cosmetic purposes.
Today olive oil is subject to strict rules and regulations. The standards for the quality of oil are defined in the 1991 European Union Regulation n. 2568, which distinguishes various oil types. Extra-virgin Olive Oil, is produced by mechanical means alone, with no chemical treatment whatsoever. Qualitatively it is the top ranking oil and must respect a series of chemical parameters: the free acidity, the amount of oleic acid present, must be lower than 0,8%; while in the Panel Test, an evaluation of the organoleptic qualities subjectively judged by professional tasters, this oil must result faultless, with a light fruity scent. Virgin Olive Oil is produced in the same way as the extra-virgin but can reach a maximum acidity level of 2%. Olive Oil is excluded from the above categories because it is produced using industrial processes and is chemically refined. “Olio lampante” is very dark, has an unpleasant smell and is not edible because of its high acidic content; the oil is industrially deacidified and discolored to obtain a neutral product with neither smell nor taste, which is then usually mixed with small quantities of extra-virgin olive oil to restore some flavor and aroma. The maximum free acidity must not exceed 1% and the organoleptic test is not required. Sansa Oil, olive pomace oil, is obtained by a further extraction from the skins and pits, the residues from the production of Virgin and Extra-virgin oils; the procedure involves the use of chemical solvents and the addition of small quantities of Virgin oil. The acidity must not exceed 1% and no organoleptic tests are required. The European Community has created a Dop, Denominazione di Origine Protetta and an IGP Indicazione Geografica Protetta, with their relevant production codes that must be scrupulously observed by producers. All the production phases, from cultivation, to pressing and bottling must be carried out within the specific geographical area and the oil is subjected to an organoleptic test. Both the high quality and the area of production are guaranteed by an institution that controls and certifies the product, and which features on the label along with the mark and the appellation. In the Chianti area, two appellations are recognized: DOP Chianti Classico and IGP Toscano. Remember these labels when shopping for olive oil in Tuscany. All of them are cooking oils, but there is a great difference among them.

Plenty of events, Tuscany town fairs and culinary feasts await the lucky traveler that ventures this Italian land. The period going from the end of August through the entire month of October is a long string of events marked with local color, traditions and tasty food.
The one you just missed (but it’s going to be back next year) is the Festa del Bigné, or Cream Puff Festival, in the splendid town of Orentano, in the province of Pisa. Each year on the third weekend of August the town celebrates this delicious cream filled pastry that shares Italian and French origins. The invention of this pastry is indeed due to Caterina de’ Medici, who married king Henri II of France. When she moved from Tuscany to France she brought along her personal chefs. One of them, whose name was Popelini, invented the puffs in 1540, filling it with cream. The bignè became famous only during the Seventeenth century, when pastry making became an art.
Celebrations start ten days prior to the last Sunday of the event, although this day is the most awaited one. The reason is the literally monumental cake that is brought in the town square, each year representing a famous monument of Italy and the world. The past editions have seen the Cathedral of Milan, the Tower of Pisa, Piazza di Spagna, while this year the featured monument was the Cathedral of Notre Dame of Paris. Hundred thousand puff pastries, 16 meters long, 4 meters and a half wide and eight meters long, these are the numbers of the monument, spectacular and lit from the inside. It takes five months of planning to create these pastry sculptures that are very similar to the original. Confectioners and carpenters work together to the “sweet monument”. The cathedral of Notre Dame was chosen as a sign of twin partnership between France and Italy and as a recognition to a land where many Pisans emigrated during the first half of last century. Orentano is also famous for its carnival that takes place every year in February. It is the carnival committee that also organizes the monumental parade in August.
While all previous evenings are free of charge, the last evening requires a 5 Euro ticket, half price for children. The previous days are available pastries produced locally, street markets, and other culinary and local folklore events. Finally, Orentano is a splendid little town to spend you holidays in Tuscany, especially during the days of the fair.

Find Orentano and its Events Tuscany in the map:

View Orentano, Events Tuscany in a larger map